How to Build A Grill Stand | Summer Outdoor Projects

How to Build a Grill Stand

As the weather warms up, it’s time to get your outdoor space ready for grilling and entertaining. This grill stand is perfect for creating much needed countertop space for summer BBQs.

Wood Grill Stand

 

Step 1: Build Base Frame

Using 2×4 boards to assemble a rectangle with widest side facing up. Secure ends via butt joints using wood glue and 3-inch galvanized deck screws. Add a center brace and secure in the same way.

Step 2: Build Mid & Upper Frame

Using 2×4 boards, assemble a rectangle with the skinny side up. Secure ends via butt joints using wood glue and 3-inch galvanized deck screws. Add a 2×4 center brace and secure in the same way. Repeat the process so that you have two identical 2×4 rectangles built, each one fortified with a center brace.

Step 3: Affix Mid & Upper Frames To Legs

Secure a 30-inch 4×4 leg into each corner of the 2×4 frame, so that the top of the posts is flush with the 2×4 frame. Use wood glue and 3-inch deck screws to attach all four legs. Next, drop down midway (or at your desired height) from the top of the post and secure the middle 2×4 frame to the 4×4 legs in the same way. This will be your middle shelf.

Step 3: Affix Mid & Upper Frames To Legs

Secure a 30-inch 4×4 leg into each corner of the 2×4 frame, so that the top of the posts is flush with the 2×4 frame. Use wood glue and 3-inch deck screws to attach all four legs. Next, drop down midway (or at your desired height) from the top of the post and secure the middle 2×4 frame to the 4×4 legs in the same way. This will be your middle shelf.

Grill Stand Hooks

Step 4: Secure Base Frame To Legs

Flip the bench over and place the 2×4 base frame atop the 4×4 legs. This is the base of the cook bench. Secure the frame to the 4×4 legs using wood glue and 3-inch deck screws. While the bench is upside- down, go ahead and install a caster in the center of each corner and lock the wheel into a stationary position. Flip the cook bench back right-side up once all four casters are secure. Hint: With casters locked, the bench won’t roll around while you finish.

Step 5: Add Decking To Base Frame

Using 1 5/8- inch galvanized deck screws attach the pre-cut decking boards to the base framework, keeping the ends flush with the frame. You will need to mark, then notch some boards to accommodate the 4×4 legs in the corners.

Step 6: Add Decking To Mid & Upper Frame

Using 1 5/8- inch galvanized deck screws, attach the longer decking boards to the middle and upper frames, allowing for a 3⁄4 inch overhang at the front and back of the bar. You will need to mark and notch the outer decking boards to allow for the 4×4 post/legs. We added 3 1⁄2 inch support blocks near notched decking boards.

Top of Grill Stand

Step 7: Cut Hole For Grill

With all the decking complete, it’s time to create the hole in the worktop to accommodate the grill. Our example uses a Big Green Egg. Keep in mind, the hole’s diameter should be a few inches smaller than the diameter of the Egg. Once you’ve determined the proper size and location, mark the center of the hole, then drill according to your jig specs. Secure the router jig into the hole, then cut the hole out of the top of the cook bench using the router.

Step 8: Sand The Cook Bench

Using an orbital sander outfitted with 220 grit paper, sand cut edges to smooth out any rough areas. Wipe away excess dust with a damp cloth.

Step 9: Trim Out Sides

Measure, then mark your base, mid and upper frames outside perimeter, then miter cut the 1×4 trim to size. Using a nail gun loaded with 1 1⁄2 inch 16-gauge finish nails, clad the frames with the trim to give the cook bench a nice finished look.

Step 10: Add Utility Bar

Don’t forget to outfit the cook bench with towel bars and S-hooks to keep utensils within easy reach. A four-foot piece of galvanized pipe and elbow flanges spray painted black add utility and style without a lot of extra cost.

We’ve compiled a full list of tools and materials you’ll need to build this grill stand here:
Tools
  • Drill
  • Measuring tape
  • Speed square
  • Pencil
  • Eye/ear protection
  • Miter saw
  • Hammer
  • Router & circular jig
  • Orbital sander
  • Nail gun
Materials
  • Softwood Lumber such as Pressure Treated Pine, Redwood or Cedar
  • 15×15 concrete paver
  • 4x4x12ft (1 post for legs)
  • 1x4x10ft (5 pc for trim work)
  • 1x6x12 ft decking (8 pc for work top &shelves)
  • 2x4x10 ft (8 pc for framing)
  • 3-inch galvanized deck screws
  • 1 5/8- inch galvanized deck screws
  • 1 1⁄2 -inch 16-gauge finish nails
  • 220 grit sand paper
  • Wood glue
  • 4 galvanized 3-inch casters (for legs)
  • Rags
  • Drop cloth (optional)
Cut List for Framing
  • 3 boards at 2x4x (base frame, sides + center brace/boards laid widest side up)
  • 2 boards at 2x4x base frame, front + back/boards laid widest side up)
  • 4 boards at 2x4x55” (mid/upper frame front + back)
  • 6 boards at 2x4x22” (mid/upper frame sides + center braces)
  • 4 boards at 2x4x3 1⁄2” (support blocks at corners middle shelf)
  • 4 posts at 4x4x32” (legs)
Cut List for Decking
  • 4 boards at 1x6x51 3⁄4” (base decking top)
  • 10 boards at 1x6x58” (5 boards each/mid and upper level decking top)
Cut List for Trim
  • 2 trim boards at 1x4x bottom/base box/miter cut front and back)
  • 2 trim boards at 1x4x (bottom /base box/miter cut/sides)
  • 4 trim boards at 1x4x56 1⁄2” (mid/upper box/miter cut)
  • *56 1⁄2 inch is long end to long end
  • 4 trim boards at 1x4x27” (mid/upper box/miter cut)
  • *27-inch is long end to long end